"How Parallel Is Parallel?"

   This is a much better system that we have developed. We have two aluminum rulers. We have placed white tape on one set of numbers. They use to have two sets of numbers — one counting from one end and the other the other.  It was easy to mix up the scale you were measuring from.

 

 

   On each one we have placed one of these rafter stops. We set the dimension that we want on each one and tighten the stop here.  We do both rulers together so we can see and double check the number.

   Now Elena places the ruler on the panel and moves it until the stop touches the edge of the panel. She then places a spring clamp on it so that it stays put while she places the guide rail in position.

   And she places the guide rail so that it abuts the other end of the ruler. Note that the rubber strip and cutting edge is on the other side.

   We have trimmed off some of the rulers. The amount is exactly the width of the guide rail. That way, the other edge of the guide rail is placed where we will be making the cut.  This is so much easier than leaving the ruler whole and placing it under the guide rail until the rail is set and then easing the ruler out.

  This is a "system approach" to making parallel cuts and reducing the areas of confusion — and potential errors.

   With the guide rail set by the two rulers, she can make her cut. See! It took longer to explain it thaan it did to use them and make the cut.  For this example, Elena is working on an MFT table. Normally, this cut would be done on the panel cutting work table — in sequence with the perpendicular cuts.

   As to square vs. parallel? It is not a matter of one or the other. Fact is, each cabinet piece will more than likely have alternating methods.
   This illustration is the layout for a 24" bases cabinet with two pull out trays. It is the output of CutListsPlus.
   The red numbers and letters are my way of showing the parallel and square cuts that I would make.
  

Parallel Cuts:
   1 - is a cut 1/2" from the side to remove the chipped edge of the board;
   2 - is 22 1/2" in from the new edge for the three pieces (back, base, and tray (1 of 2);
   3 - is the 2nd cut that gives us the sides (2), and
   4 - a slightly narrower cut for the 2nd tray.

   Square Cuts:
   A & E - to remove 1/2" selvadge at edge of panel;
   B - for back
   C - 2nd side of base
   D - 2nd side of tray 1;
   F - 2nd cut to side 1;
   G - 2nd cut to side 2;
   H - 2nd cut to tray 2.

   These pieces can get mixed up fast if they are not marked as they are completed. The software program provides us with printed out address labels. That can help to keep things straight. (Yes, this is not the label for this cut. It is a "stock" photo that I use just to illustrate this part.)

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