New Product — "Jessem Zip Slot Mortise Mill"

     I look pretty somber and I shouldn't. I am just starting to review a new product — the Jessem Zip Slot Mortise Mill. I read about this in the reports on IWF and quickly wrote the company for a unit to review. So come along with me.

  

      So here it is. I have placed it on my router table top since my workbench is still taken with a dovetail jig that is in the review process.
   Fact is, it isn't a permanent place for it but is real handy for an "as needed" tool.
   I can see already that this machine has the high qualities of all Jessem products.  Heavy gauge steel and aluminum for machined parts. Lots of highly machined and accurate travelers. Brass knurled and easy to tighten knobs. Accurate and clear measuring guides.... and on. It is just pure Jessem.

       

          There are holes for three bolts or screws for attaching the jig to the work counter. I drill one hole in the router table top to see if it could hold this jig. It works fine.

       There is little to assemble with this machine — just the working handles. The inset shows the contents of the parts package. It is nice to get one Allen wrench of each one required. Yes, I have them in the shop but often don't no where.
    Two specially machined screws and a washer are required to fasten the handles in place.

 

    Here is the "key working part" of the system. It appears to be an up-spiral bit with an elongated groove for expelling the chips. But that is just my "read" on it.
    I am locating the stop collar. The instructions say to place it 2.4" plus the depth of the mortise you want.

    The instructions say that the drill speed should be greater than 1200 rpm. I decided to chuck this special drill in the one corded drill I have. It has speeds to 2500. I always use it for pocket holes and beadLOCK type use.

       There are several settings that must be made before you can cut a mortise. I am now setting for the width of the stock — 3/4". The inset shows how clear the scales are. They allow for dead-on accuracy.

 

         Each of the adjustments can be made by the proper scales, but I found that I could get great mortises by adjusting the pieces by eye — with some minor adjustments as I go. I will show that here and cover all the adjustments in more pages that I will add at the next update — just a few days away.
   Here I have penciled where the two pieces should have a tenon.

        

       I have set the stop so that the tenon will be centered on the rail.

  

     

   I clamp it in place.

      So here is what it is all about. My right hand stays on the drill and allows it to slowly lower as it cuts. The left hand is on the cross travel and just goes back and forth between the stops. The speed of the cut depends on the wood grain direction and species. I found that with poplar, I wanted to slow the downward rate — it gave me a smoother cut.

   I used the 3/8" by 2" tenons that came with the kit. You can see the tenon just before I closed the joint.

   You can't get much tighter or more accurate than that.
   There is more to tell and for me, there is more to learn. I will add to this starter page in the near future.

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